Swim
07:10Feniglia, the pine beach on the Orbetello lagoon. The van leaves at ten past seven and comes back for breakfast. The water in September is warmer than the air.
Six days in the Maremma for fourteen women. Swimming before breakfast, writing until lunch, long tables until late, and nobody asking you to manifest anything.
Not a cleanse. Not a reset. Six days of the things a grown woman rarely gets in a row: cold water in the morning, a closed door until lunch, a table nobody clears at nine, and thirteen other women worth talking to.
Everything else is optional, including the things on this list. Most women do all three by Tuesday.
Feniglia, the pine beach on the Orbetello lagoon. The van leaves at ten past seven and comes back for breakfast. The water in September is warmer than the air.
The writing room with Philippa Ashdown. Doors closed, phones in the basket. A memoir, a letter, a novel you started in 2011, or nothing at all and a long look out of the window.
One table under the pines, every night. Rosa cooks from what came out of the garden that morning. Nobody gets up to clear, and nobody is in a hurry to.
Pick a day. Every week is the same shape and never quite the same week. This is the September plan.
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A nineteenth century farmhouse in the hills above Capalbio, with cork oaks on one side and, on a clear day, the Argentario on the other. The Lago di Burano reserve sits below the house. You will hear it before you see it.
The kitchen. Rosa Bigi cooks from Manciano, twenty minutes up the road. Breakfast is slow, lunch is light, dinner is not. Tell us what you don't eat and she will simply not cook it.
Founder and host
Twenty years as a features editor in Milan and London, the last eight spent half the year in Capalbio. She started La Seconda Estate in 2022, after a September she describes as the first in a decade when nobody needed anything from her before lunch.
"Write the bad version first. It is the only one that gets finished."
The writing room
Novelist, four books, London. Runs the mornings. Bring the thing you have been meaning to write, or nothing at all.
"No chanting. Just strong legs and a good night's sleep."
Movement on the terrace
Strength, mobility and breath, from Lisbon. Every body and every age, at the end of the afternoon when the stone is still warm.
"I am fifty eight and I had not been in the sea at seven in the morning since I was a girl. I went every single day."
"Nobody asked me what I do. By Wednesday I had forgotten to mind."
"Friday's long table, everyone reading one page. Mine is still on the fridge."
"I came alone and left with four women I now call on Sundays."
1 · The week
2 · The room
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Ottavia
Included
Six nights, every meal and the wine that goes with it, the writing room, movement, the van to the sea, a day at the Tarot Garden, transfers from Rome Fiumicino.Not included
Flights, travel insurance, massages in the old stable (from €110), and the ceramics you will carry home from Capalbio.No. The room is there every morning and so is the window. About a third of the women read, a few sleep, and one sat with a sketchbook for six days and drew the same olive tree.
If you can walk a beach and climb a flight of stone stairs, you are fit enough. Ife adjusts everything, and the swim can be a paddle.
Most women do. The private rooms are for exactly that, and the twins are for friends who book together.
The deposit moves to another week within eighteen months. Cancel more than ninety days out and the balance is refunded in full.